Wednesday, May 30, 2007

We are sooo sorry we haven’t been able to update the blog until now but we have not had internet access since we left the Galapagos. We hope you all were not to worried about our safety.

After spending a week in the Galapagos, we began our 3,000 mile journey across the South Pacific Ocean to the Marquesas. The first few days were very slow as there was NO wind and we tried not to use the engine in order to conserve fuel. The next week we sailed non-stop through various 20+ mile an hour squalls, rainstorms, and large swells. Although the seas remained rough, the following weeks brought some clear skies and starry nights with a new moon rising. Suzanne2 was strong and secure and carried us safely across.

The Ocean is massive and we seemed so small and isolated in comparison. We rarely saw any other vessels, and given the sea conditions, did not see much marine life, although there were several flying fish landing in the boat. We depleted our fresh meat and most of our produce by Day 10 at sea, so it became time for “creative cooking with cans.” You can imagine the cravings we had by the end of the passage. Luckily, Ken caught a nice Mahimahi on Day 18 that fed us well for a few days.

It took 22.5 days to cross the great ocean. The greatest distance that we traveled in one day was 168 nautical miles. We arrived in the dark at Isle Fatu Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia on May 5, and awoke to an amazing “Oh My God” paradise. Green, lush, tropical plants and trees, volcanic spires, and clear water. Wow! What a reward for enduring the South Pacific crossing. We took a long hike through the jungle to a large waterfall (with little water) and feasted with a local family who fed us lobster, various seafood dishes and salads, coconut juice, and marinated bananas.

We left the Marquesas on the morning of May 14, Ken’s Birthday. Crossed the ocean again 400 + miles to the next group of islands, the Tuamotu’s. Arrived at Takaroa, a beautiful coral lined atoll, on May 18. There we met Jeffery who owned the local store. He also owns a pearl farm. Jeffery offered to give us a ride, after he got off work, to the only store that sold beer. It was several miles from town down a road that was mostly dirt. At the beer store Jeffery and his two buddies also bought some beer. We all sat under some coconut palm trees next to the water and drank a beer. Jeffery asked us if we would like to take a boat ride and visit his pearl farm that was on the other side of the atoll. We happily agreed and off we went. These guys were really nice, funny and very generous. The pearl farm, and Jeffery’s house on the beach was amazing. It was exactly like what you would expect on a French Polynesian Atoll.

Before the afternoon was over Jeffery gave Paula a black pearl that he personally picked out for her. He offered to sale us pearls for fifty dollars each but unfortunately we were totally out of cash and there was no place to get any. Nobody takes Visa on these small atolls and the nearest bank is hundreds of miles away. This was an opportunity that we will regret missing for a long time. (By the way, a case of beer on Takaroa costs $60 dollars US.)

We spent the next week at Rangiroa, a beautiful atoll 150 miles west by southwest from Takaroa. The water was more clear than you can imagine and the snorkeling was amazing!

We arrived in Papeete,Tahiti, on May 28 at 2 am after sailing for about 32 hours. Papeete is a large city that we will explore along with the surrounding island. Our boat is docked downtown in front of a small park.

Next stop will be the rest of the Society Islands including Bora Bora, then on to Tonga.


We caught this MahiMahi two thirds of the way across
the South Pacific. It was great to have fresh food.



These next three pictures are of Fatu Hiva. Out first
landfall in the Marquesas.








Church on Fatu Hiva. We listened to the locals singing
in their native language. It was beautiful.



Takaroa Atol




Fishing with kids on Takaroa Atol

Paula and the pearl farmers. (Paula is the real pearl.)
Tahuata Island near Hiva Oa



We anchored just off the Kia Ora Resort on Rangiroa Atol




Birds often try to land on our masthead when we are
out at sea. Some manage a short stay.

This poor guy grabbed our fishing lore and got the
hook stuck in his wing. We had to stop sailing and
turn the boat around to reel it in and get the hook out.
It was a little stunned and took a brief rest on deck
before it took off.


Another of the many beautiful sunrise
at sea.